An unusual Chinese embroidered gauze woman's vest

An unusual Chinese embroidered gauze woman's vest, Xiapei 刺绣女士马甲霞帔 Third quarter 19th century 十九世纪中后期

Of midnight blue gauze lined with salmon silk, embroidered in counted stitch and couched gold thread with a pair of opposing five-clawed dragons grasping flaming jewels, the verso with a similar front-facing dragon, all among clouds, bats, shou symbols and a variety of birds, and above crashing waves and rockwork with auspicious symbols and treasures, peony scroll border, all above a green knotted netting and tassel border of varying colors punctuated with metal beads; the vest applied with two rank badges depicting sixth civil rank egrets in couched gold thread on grey-blue gauze, below a "cloud-collar" punctuated by peony sprays.

(L: 46 in.)

Qty: (1)

Private American Collection
Linda Wrigglesworth, London, acquired from the above, 1988; Sold Christie's, New York, March 8, 2008, "The Imperial Wardrobe: Fine Chinese Costume and Textiles from the Linda Wrigglesworth Collection", lot 15
The Jeffrey M. Kaplan Collection, acquired from the above

Footnote:

According to the catalogue entry for the Christie's sale above, the xiapei was based on embroided stoles worn by ladies of the Ming court. The xiapei was worn by Han ladies, and in this case, is applied with the badges corresponding to her husband's rank as a civil official.