19th C. Turkoman Gilded Silver Pendant w/ Carnelian

Central Asia, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan or Turkmenistan, Turkoman (Turkman), Karakalpaks or Tekke peoples, ca. 19th to early 20th century CE. A massive 50% silver, brass, and gilt pendant or pectoral plate worn by Turkmen woman. The piece is a rhomboid shape with openwork and incised geometric decoration across the surface. Two flanges protrude from the tips, and integral loops are added to the top and bottom for suspension and additional ornamentation. The central ovoid bezels hold 4 carnelian stones. Chain links attached to the lower loops dangle 20 teardrop shaped ornaments with a repousse pattern. This is a gorgeous and large ensemble that would be a stunning wall ornament. The piece is strung with a modern cord and lobster clasp. Size: 10.5" L x 8.5" W (26.7 cm x 21.6 cm); silver quality: 50%; weight: 354.3 grams

From the Metropolitan Museum of Art's website "Turkmen Jewelry" August 2011: "Although nominally Sunni Muslim, the Turkmen kept many of their pre-Islamic customs and beliefs, which were often embodied in the jewelry they made and wore. Turkmen silver jewelry carried deep symbolic meanings and often marked an individual's passage from one stage of life to another. From a very early age, a woman started wearing jewelry whose shapes and materials were believed to ensure her ability to bear healthy children later in life. The amount of embellishments a girl wore increased as she approached marriageable age. Once she had had her first children, and her fertility had been established, the amount of jewelry she received and wore decreased. In addition, silver jewelry believed to ward off evil and illness was worn by men, women, and especially by children.

Jewelry was a significant financial investment, as it was handcrafted from precious materials. There were cases when, in times of dire need, a woman would part with her jewelry in order to help the survival of the tribe. Significant in size and weight, Turkmen jewelry objects were made of silver, decorated with semi-precious stones, and sometimes gilded for an added color effect and value."

For a similar example please see the Metropolitan Museum of Art website accession number: 2010.501.5.

Provenance: private Southern California, USA collection, in the USA since 1997

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#167297
Condition Report: Some bending and mishappen chains. Indentations and surface scratches as expected with age and use. In great condition. Old inventory labels on verso. Strung on modern cord with a clasp, while potentially wearable, please note the size. This could be restrung or mounted as a wall ornament.