A FINE GEM-SET AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY FRED...

A FINE GEM-SET AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY FRED PARIS, CIRCA 1970 - 1980

Of articulated design, composed of four large openwork bombé links set with alternating sapphire, ruby and emerald cabochons highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds throughout with textured gold detail, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 10.00cts, signed Fred Paris, with maker's mark 'AV' for André Vassort, French assay marks, with maker's case, length 16.6cm

Fred Samuel (1908-2006) established his jewellery brand in 1936 in Paris, where he spent much of his professional life. Originally from Buenos Aires, born into a family that dealt in precious stones, it was no surprise he conceived a passion for cultured pearls and won recognition as a leading expert in the field. Fred imbued his designs with the energy of South America, saying his creations were inspired by the life, the light, the movement, the energy of the continent. This passion is expressed through the use of coloured gemstones and playful motifs. During World War II, Fred Samuel fled Paris and became an interpreter for the Allies. After the war, the brand changed its name to from Fred Samuel to 'Fred' due to anti-Jewish sentiment in post-war Germany. Describing himself in 1936 as a 'Contemporary Creative Jeweller', he proved this through his striking modern designs, with rounded, curvaceous lines. Fred became famous for jewels designed by Jean Cocteau and for its famous clients, such as Marlène Dietrich and the royal family of Monaco, including princess Grace. In 1966 Fred Paris was the inventor of cable jewellery 'Force 10' (made of stainless steel) and this feature is still very prominent today in ring, bracelet, pendant and necklace designs. As the brand grew, new stores were opened across the world; 1976 Monte Carlo, 1981 Cannes, 2001 Tokyo and 2007 Beijing, Dubai and Bogotá. The company became the property of LVMH in 1996 and Fred collaborated with Kate Moss for the design of an exclusive collection in 2012. Fred Paris designed the iconic 23 heart-shaped ruby necklace interlaced with diamonds, which was gifted to Julia Roberts by Richard Gere in the film Pretty Woman. The last major film for which Fred Paris provided jewellery was Casino Royale starring Daniel Craig, featuring the star collection pendant and earrings. This magnificent bracelet is a unique creation of Fred. n 1995 FRED joined the Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton LVMH group.

In the secluded streets of Paris, shadowed by the celebrity of the great jewellery maisons of France, work the craftsmen whose talents satisfy the constant appetite for glamour.

In December 1955, at 34 rue Sainte Anne, André Vassort registered his atelier and soon became one of the most sought-after jewellers in France. He was quickly employed by names such as Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels, Mauboussin and FRED. His work adorned their most discerning clients and he became a favourite in carrying out special commissions. Of particular note was the crown that he created under Van Cleef and Arpels for Empress Farah of Iran. Taking six months to complete, the magnificent piece is iridescent with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls, mounted in white gold and set against a backdrop of forest-green velvet.

Vassort specialised in working with gold, drawn to the warmth and texture that could be coaxed from the metal, however, he did not shy away from other materials. His understanding of gemstones allowed him to create bold and colourful pieces, exemplified in this lot. Working anonymously for larger houses, a large portion of Vassort's work is unsigned, but, here, we are gifted with his maker's mark 'AV'.

When André Vassort closed his workshop in the early 1990s, his name and work were revered within the jewellery industry and his pieces had become synonymous with enduring quality.