A MANCHU WOMAN'S LAVENDER SILK ROBE, CHANGYI 19th century
A MANCHU WOMAN'S LAVENDER SILK ROBE, CHANGYI
19th century
Finely embroidered throughout in satin stitch with sprigs of cherry blossoms and clusters of ruyi, bats and peaches, all executed in the varying shades of turquoise and aubergine and interspersed with Shou characters sewn in gold-wrapped thread, within cream borders of flittering butterflies and floral bunches, the pale cream cuffs with further butterflies and blossoming peonies, the interior lined with yellow silk.
137cm (54in) long x 130.5cm (51 1/8in) wide.
十九世紀 雪灰色缎地繡蝠壽花蝶紋氅衣
Elegantly embroidered with floral and animal designs, the present robe is replete with auspicious symbolism conveying wishes for happiness and long life and displays the typical fashion trends followed by young Manchu noblewomen associated with the Court of the Empress Dowager Cixi.
Clothing was a critical means of self-expression for all women at the Court and their fondness for auspicious designs was in line with the visual culture of the time.
The blooming prunus symbolised both resilience, flourishing amidst winter's chill, and longevity. The inclusion of butterflies and peaches further reinforced the concept of enduring life. The name for butterfly, hudie, is homophonous with terms denoting advanced age, and large peaches were believed to grow in the lush garden of the queen Mother of the West. The deity, residing in the Kunlun Mountains is associated with immortality, longevity and the elixir of life.
Compare with a related red-ground silk robe decorated with butterflies, 19th century, which was sold at Bonhams London, 16 May 2019, lot 195.
Bid on this lot
A MANCHU WOMAN'S LAVENDER SILK ROBE, CHANGYI
19th century
Finely embroidered throughout in satin stitch with sprigs of cherry blossoms and clusters of ruyi, bats and peaches, all executed in the varying shades of turquoise and aubergine and interspersed with Shou characters sewn in gold-wrapped thread, within cream borders of flittering butterflies and floral bunches, the pale cream cuffs with further butterflies and blossoming peonies, the interior lined with yellow silk.
137cm (54in) long x 130.5cm (51 1/8in) wide.
十九世紀 雪灰色缎地繡蝠壽花蝶紋氅衣
Elegantly embroidered with floral and animal designs, the present robe is replete with auspicious symbolism conveying wishes for happiness and long life and displays the typical fashion trends followed by young Manchu noblewomen associated with the Court of the Empress Dowager Cixi.
Clothing was a critical means of self-expression for all women at the Court and their fondness for auspicious designs was in line with the visual culture of the time.
The blooming prunus symbolised both resilience, flourishing amidst winter's chill, and longevity. The inclusion of butterflies and peaches further reinforced the concept of enduring life. The name for butterfly, hudie, is homophonous with terms denoting advanced age, and large peaches were believed to grow in the lush garden of the queen Mother of the West. The deity, residing in the Kunlun Mountains is associated with immortality, longevity and the elixir of life.
Compare with a related red-ground silk robe decorated with butterflies, 19th century, which was sold at Bonhams London, 16 May 2019, lot 195.
