A RARE AND MAGNIFICENT SAPPHIRE-SET CUFF, BY MARIO...

A RARE AND MAGNIFICENT SAPPHIRE-SET CUFF, BY MARIO BUCCELLATI, CIRCA 1955

The wide cuff bangle with side hinge, composed of textured gold leaves accented by circular-cut sapphires set in silver, the central flowerhead set with a circular-cut sapphire pistil and petals, mounted in silver and 18K gold, signed M. Buccellati, with maker's case, inner circumference approximately 17cm, inner diameter 5.6cm, width 3.4cm

The world-renowned Italian house of Buccellati is famous for its textural gold jewellery and exquisite silver objects. The pieces are bold and instantly recognisable, with a style that references the great goldsmiths of the Renaissance.

The family firm was founded by Mario Buccellati (1891-1965). The young jeweller was inspired by the forgotten antique techniques of ancient Greece, the Middle Ages and the Renaissance and he sought to revive them using traditional tools and methods. In 1919 he opened his first jewellery store in Milan, practising these ancient traditions. Buccellati pieces are noted for their rich textural qualities which are achieved through painstaking techniques. The signature rigato engraving effect is completed by a process using tiny hand-applied stripes to give gold surfaces the appearance of silk fabric. Other methods used include telato, obtained by fine cross-hatched lines, and modellato, the most delicate engraving technique, which consists of reproducing several designs chiselled in three dimensions on a minuscule scale, mainly used for the decoration of the borders. Furthermore, segrinato combines engraving in all directions to create a palimpsest of texture and ornato draws on the influence of nature, forming shapes inspired by animals, leaves and flowers. These techniques are used to create pieces which look and feel like silk, damask, tulle, lace, or linen. The juxtaposition of precious stones with texturized metals is distinctly unique and synonymous with the Buccellati house.

Mario Buccellatis unique abilities for drawing and his creative mind led him to become one of Italys most celebrated jewellers. The royal families of Europe, great cardinals of Rome and the Pope were amongst his clientele. Gabriele D'Annunzio, one of Italy's most famous poets and a personal friend of Buccellati, once referred to him as the Prince of Goldsmiths. If the endorsement of his clients was not enough, Buccellati received international recognition when he exhibited at the 1920 Exposition in Madrid, selling his entire collection.

The expansion of business internationally began in 1951 with New York. After the passing of Mario Buccellati in 1965, he was succeeded by his sons, among them Gianmaria, who took over the business. Gianmaria had apprenticed under his father at a young age, embracing the antique techniques treasured by him, designing every piece produced in the ateliers. In 1970, under Gianmaria and his brother Luca, Buccellati further expanded the business to Asia, establishing the first Italian Jewellers in Hong Kong. This was swiftly followed by subsequent stores in Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya in the following years. Buccellati became the first Italian jewellers to launch a boutique in the renowned Place Vendôme of Paris in 1979. In accordance with tradition, Gianmaria, after his passing in 2015, was also succeeded by one of his children, his daughter Andrea, the current present and creative director of the Buccellati group.

Over the century, the Buccellati group have widened their creations to silver objects, predominately unique, one-off pieces, marked with the typical characteristics of the house. Recently the group have expanded further, creating a line of luxury watches, both men and womens pieces, and a line of engagement rings.