A RARE SAPPHIRE AND GOLD COMPACT, BY CHARLES...

A RARE SAPPHIRE AND GOLD COMPACT, BY CHARLES HOLL, CIRCA 1945

The rectangular case composed of a geometric abstract pattern of tri-coloured gold stripes inspired by the ancient Japanese metalworking technique of mokume-gane, decorated with fancy-cut sapphires within gold zig-zag borders to each end, the thumbpiece set with a step-cut sapphire opening to reveal a mirror lid and glazed powder well compartment, in 18K gold, French assay marks, maker's mark for Charles Holl, numbered, width 7.4cm, length 4.9cm, depth 1.1cm

Mokume Gane is a 17th century term, originating in Japan, referring to the metalwork process which uses a mixed-metal laminate to create a design of layered patterns. Initially used in the decoration of samurai swords, the word Mokume Gane translates from Japanese as 'Wood Grain Metal' or 'Wood Eye Metal'. The aim of this process is to present the illusion of natural wood grain, referencing eyes, burls, swirls and layers. This distinctive pattern is created by fusing various metals into a 'billet', or stack of metals. The billets are then folded, forged and carved to create the natural grain-like appearance.

Mokume Gane uses precious metals that are long lasting and incredibly durable. Traditionally, copper was used to achieve this look, being of particular importance to knifemakers and metalsmiths who work on a larger scale. On account of its more delicate nature, jewellers tend to place a greater emphasis on silver and gold when incorporating the method into their pieces.