A Unique Ruby and Diamond Clip Brooch, Cartier

Of floral design, centring upon a cluster of ruby beads with collet-set single-cut diamond finials, to the petals embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds and buff-top rubies, cluster centre detachable and can be worn as a clip brooch, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay marks, circa 1950.

Provenance:
Cartier Blooms

Botanical motifs in jewelry have shown waves of reinvention throughout history. Defying boundaries and experimenting with ways mimicking patterns in nature alluding to floral designs, Cartier has stylized flowers in phases of bloom through the decades, capturing the softness and life of the flower, with the ageless beauty of precious gems and stones. Drawing inspiration from nature has been a constant theme for the Maison since its inception, with naturalistic motifs in designs apparent as early as the late 19th century.

Always seeking to craft pieces that go beyond expectations, Cartier's interpretations on floral jewels evolved throughout the ages. In 1931, Cartier created a floral brooch also using ruby beads as the flowerhead while decorating the petals as portrait diamonds – a special order for Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala. In 1949, by another special order, ruby beads were studded with collet-set diamonds as embellishments to a palm tree motif necklace. These reimagined botanical motifs of flora and fauna are colourful and whimsical – a testament to Cartier being able to elevate the gems and metals to their fullest potential.

This ruby and diamond brooch is a beautiful example from the late 1940s to the early 1950s. The rich ruby beads decorate the flowerhead with collet-set diamonds, brought to life by the polished walls of its reflective white gold petals. Playing with the gift of light, these blooming petals has the effect of a dramatic illusion at every angle. Lot 1694 bears the charm of the Cartier imagination of the time, taking ordinary flowers and enhancing them into timeless jewels.