AUDEMARS PIGUET, STAINLESS STEEL 'ROYAL OAK, A-SERIES', REF. 5402ST CASE...

CIRCA: 1972
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless steel
CASE DIAMETER: 39 mm. wide
BRACELET MATERIAL: Stainless steel
BRACELET SIZE: Approx. 185 mm. overall length
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Date
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
WITH: Service card
REMARK: Approx. 1937 pieces made

Lot Essay
Examples of the original Royal Oak ‘A Series’ are becoming increasingly difficult to obtain, firmly establishing them among the great classics of modern watch collecting. The present example is particularly captivating for the remarkable tropicalisation visible across the centre of its dial. Originally black, the surface has naturally aged to an exceptionally attractive light bronze-gold tone whose appearance subtly changes depending on the angle and intensity of the light. Due to the unpredictable nature of this ageing process, each tropical dial develops an entirely unique character.

Adding considerably to its appeal, the present watch retains a bracelet manufactured by Gay Frères, the legendary bracelet maker whose exceptional craftsmanship established it as one of the most celebrated specialists of the 20th century. The dial is furthermore distinguished by the coveted applied AP logo positioned at 6 o’clock, a defining characteristic of early Royal Oak production. By the end of 1978, the logo had been relocated to 12 o’clock, making this original placement an important and highly desirable feature of early examples.

Reference 5402ST
Introduced at Baselworld in 1972, reference 5402ST was the revolutionary creation of legendary designer Gérald Genta and established an entirely new category of luxury sports watch. Its audacious combination of stainless steel construction, integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel and exceptionally thin automatic movement challenged established notions of luxury watchmaking and would ultimately become one of Audemars Piguet’s defining designs.

Reference 5402ST was produced across four principal series: A, B, C and D, each displaying subtle aesthetic and technical evolutions. Approximately 4,288 examples were produced across all series. Today, the earliest ‘A Series’ watches occupy a particularly privileged position among collectors, with beautifully preserved examples displaying distinctive natural tropicalisation, such as the present timepiece, representing some of the most charismatic and desirable versions of this landmark reference.