Audemars Piguet - Royal Oak Automatic

Audemars Piguet - Royal Oak Automatic

A stunning vintage Geneva steel wristwatch with date, produced in 1974 and sold to Germany - "cult" watch from the first A series! Movm. No. 171830, Ref. 5402ST, Cal. 2121, Case No. A1373 / No. 80373, Dimensions 39 x 48 mm, circa 1974, Origin Schweiz, Original box, Extract from the archives Case: Steel, screwed on back, AP steel bracelet, bracelet length 140 mm, total length 180 mm. Dial: Hazel / anthracite iridescent, "Petite tapisserie" guilloche pattern. Movm.: Automatic. When the Royal Oak was launched in 1972, its unusual design with octagonal bezel, "tapisserie" dial and integrated bracelet was considered extremely novel and unorthodox – and it made the watch a true modern style icon. It was the first steel wristwatch Audemars Piguet had produced. The design was by Gérald Genta, whose designs were also used for the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the IWC Ingenieur, and the movement was by Jaeger-LeCoultre. It was considered the thinnest automatic movement of the time and had a 21-carat gold oscillating weight. The clearly legible dial was an engine turned metal alloy and was more expensive than gold in the early 1970s. The machining of the strap was just as expensive, because steel is much harder and more difficult to work with than gold. The case was cut out of a metal block. The eight hexagonal screws are due to a patented case seal and are made of 18-carat white gold. The first Royal Oak series consisted of 1,000 pieces. After another series of 1,000 pieces with the prefix "A", Audemars Piguet continued with "B" and "C" series etc.. As can be seen from the case number on the case back, this Royal Oak is from the first series in which only 2000 pieces were produced. In line with the early series, the "AP" letter signature is located on the dial above the 6 o'clock index and not at 12 o'clock, as is the case with the more recent models from the C series. Furthermore, the "Swiss" designation without "Made" is placed below the 6 o'clock position. The crown is original, recognisable by the missing marking, as are the original luminous Royal Oak baton hands, which present themselves here with a beautiful patina in a warm beige colour. Overall, the timepiece is in well-kept condition with sharp facets. The beautifully aged "tapisserie" dial is breathtaking; its pyramid-shaped squares have changed their colour slightly over time from black to a gently iridescent hazelnut brown colour. The engravings on the caseback, however, are deep and excellently preserved. The beautiful, original steel bracelet is perfect and has hardly any stretch. Unfortunately, during an undocumented service, the movement was replaced. Case: very good. Dial: very good. Movm.: very good, capable of running, later original, cleaning recommended.