Description A FABERGÉ DIAMOND AND GOLD BROOCH, BY WORKMASTER...

Description

A FABERGÉ DIAMOND AND GOLD BROOCH, BY WORKMASTER EDUARD SCHRAMM, ST PETERSBURG, CIRCA 1885

The old brilliant-cut diamond weighing approximately 0.85ct at the centre of a diamond similarly-cut seven pointed star, within a frame of old cushion-shaped diamonds to a further frame of seed pearls, struck with maker's mark in Latin 'ES' for Fabergé work master Eduard Schramm, 56 zolotnik-gold standard for 14K gold, remaining diamonds approximately 2.00cts total, length 2.8cm

Reference: Encyclopaedia of Whos Who in the House of Faberge by Will Lowes and Christel Ludewig McCanless, page 235

The initials ES are stamped on the diamond and pearl star brooch. This piece is by the German workmaster Eduard Wilhelm Schramm, who married a Russian girl Elena Zacharova and qualified as a master goldsmith in 1874. He opened his own workshop that same year, but he remained an independent master throughout his life, collaborating with foremost jewellers in St Petersburg, among them Fabergé and Bolin. Schramm had an extraordinary talent, and was particularly skilful, mastering complex and intricate techniques. He also had his finger on the pulse of current styles, such as Art Nouveau and Japonisme, which he adapted with his personnel touch. He occasionally supplied gold cigarette cases and small gold objects, such as pill boxes and plates to Fabergé, often with a hammered finish. The impeccable detail and tightness of design of this beautiful brooch, illustrates Schramms talent as a master goldsmith. Another example of Schramms jewellery went up for auction in Sothebys Russian Work of Art, Fabergé and Icons in London on 1st December 2015, Lot 413, a rare Faberge Jewelled Gold Brooch.

The house of Fabergé is held in the highest of esteem in the world of jewellery, with the name being synonymous with the Imperial Fabergé Eggs created for the Russian Royal Family. Carl Fabergé acquired unrivalled skill as a goldsmith and his posthumous reputation continues to increase, the further we move from Fabergés fleeting decades between 1882 and 1917.

The Russian revolution brought irrevocable change, with the communist regime became more and more insular and the eventual drop of the Iron Curtain on the outside world. Luxury businesses were redundant in this communist society, where basic survival was paramount and Fabergé with its obvious connections to the Court was one of the first to have its doors closed. With Soviet Russia sealed off from the rest of the world, Fabergés glory faded fast and few people remembered Carls genius and the remarkable business it fostered. There was a dearth of knowledge about Fabergé and his work alone was left to speak for itself, the witty animal carvings, the extraordinary jewellery and intricate Imperial Easter eggs became silent witnesses on their own account.

The story begins in 1842 with Gustav Faberge establishing his own jewellery store on the main street of Bolshaya Morskaya, post apprenticeship with the notorous firm of Keibel, goldsmiths and jewellers to the Emperors of Russia. Peter Carl Fabergé (1846-1920), the eldest son of Gustav took over the business in 1882, the design-led artist-jeweller with a penchant for colour through both stones and reviving the lost art of enamelling, brought the firm to great heights, along with his brother Agathon.

Carl studied at the Dresden Arts and Crafts School and frequently visited the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) museum, home to largest collection of treasures in Europe. In 1864, at age 18 toured Europe where he studied under respected goldsmiths in Germany, France and England and took a course at Schlosss Commercial College in Paris. Carl returned to St Petersburg in 1870 to help run his fathers business, that was being managed by a team headed by workmaster Peter Hiskias Pendin, who assumed the role of both tutor and mentor. He got involved with cataloguing, repairing and restoring masterpieces in the Court museum and he went on to restore and repair the 18th Century objects dart in the Collection. This no doubt sowed the seeds in his mind for using past genre as inspiration for contemporary art. He married Augusta Jacobs in 1872 with whom he would go on to have four sons.

Fabergé showcased their jewellery at the Pan-Russian Exhibition in Moscow, this was a serendipitous occasion for the house, as it marked the beginning of a relationship with the royal family. The Tzar was very impressed with the quality and artistry of the jewels, and commissioned Fabergé to create an ornate Easter egg for his wife Maria Feodorovna. This was the first of 50 Imperial Easter eggs that Fabergé would create for the Romanovs and these same eggs continue to fascinate and inspire today. Fabergé were granted the Royal Warrant soon after and given the title goldsmith by special appointment to the Imperial Crown.

Faberges international reputation was secured in 1900 at the Exposition Universelle in Paris , the overwhelming success of this event led to commissions from Edward VII and other European royals. The business was rapidly expanding and by 1900 Carl had about 500 people employed and was running the countrys largest jewellery firm, making a wealth of objects and jewels.The firm's success continued until the 1917 Revolution and despite the tragic circumstances surrounding the demise of the firm, the name Fabergé lives on and remains as revered today as it was in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Fabergés success stands as a testament to the exceptional talents of a vast team, including master goldsmiths and silversmiths, who were guided by the uncompromising and remarkable leadership of Carl Fabergé. Carl had a keen eye for skill and talent, he gave said craftsmen the opportunity to set up independent workshops to supply the expanding Fabergé business. These craftsmen hailed from regions not too far from St Petersburg, coming from poor families the thriving metropolis offered the opportunity for employment and advancement. They signed on as apprentices, and through hard work and resilience they qualified as master goldsmiths and silversmiths, experts in their field, necessary to meet the exacting requirements demanded of Carl Fabergé. The initials of the craftsmen were stamped on Fabergé pieces, allowing their skills be recorded in the annals of gold smithery.