Exceptional natural pearl and diamond necklace, circa 1920

Designed as a graduated row of round to oval natural pearls measuring approximately from 7.05 to 14.00mm, the clasp millegrain-set with a marquise-shaped diamond, length approximately 390mm, French maker's and assay marks for platinum, pouch stamped Cartier.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 85153, dated 21 March 2016, stating that thirty-seven pearls were found to be natural, saltwater; together with an appendix letter.

Condition Report:
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 85153, dated 21 March 2016, stating that thirty-seven round to oval pearls, measuring approximately 7.05 - 9.05 - 14.00 - 9.50 - 7.60mm, were found to be natural, saltwater; together with an appendix letter.

French maker's mark. French assay marks for platinum. Pearls of slightly cream to light cream bodycolour, partly with green and rosé overtones, some examples with internal fractures visible under transmitted light, surface reaching fissures and crazing to some examples, pitting, minor wrinkled skins and light crazing, peeling skins to some examples, with good lustre, some with areas of satin-like lustre. In our experts' opinion the marquise-shaped diamond estimated to weigh approximately 4.50 - 5.00 carats, measuring approximately 13.50 x 8.73 x 5.45mm, is H-J colour, SI1-SI2 clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Scuffs and scratches to the metal consistent with age and wear. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 53 grams. Accompanied by a vintage pouch stamped CARTIER.

Catalogue Note:
'The pearls have been carefully selected for this necklace and exhibit a beautifully matching shape and quality.'

Excerpt from the SSEF appendix letter

Gayatri Devi (1919-2009)

Gayatri Devi was the Maharani of Jaipur as the third wife of Man Singh II (1912-1970). Following the end of the British Imperial rule and the abolition of the Indian Princely States, she went on to be elected as a member of parliament continuing to serve the people over whom she once ruled.

Gayatri Devi was born a Princess of Cooch Behar to Prince Jitendra Narayan (1886-1922) and Indira Devi (1892-1968), daughter of the Maharajah of Baroda. Her mother was a highly cultivated woman renowned for her elegant dress sense and patronage of the best London and Parisian jewellers. Furthermore, Indira Devi acted as regent of Cooch Behar, undoubtedly setting an example for her daughter who inherited her style and intelligence.

Gayatri Devi married Man Singh II of Jaipur in 1940 much to the dismay of her mother as the Jaipur court, which adhered strictly to the rules of purdah, was very restrictive to women. However, Gayatri and her husband were both very interested in modernising Jaipur.

The independence of India in 1947 brought about the abolition of the Princely States. Gayatri Devi felt compelled to continue serving the interests of her former subjects by entering politics. In 1962, she was elected to parliament in what was at the time the world’s largest landslide electoral victory. That same year, she received Jacqueline Kennedy on her goodwill tour of India and Pakistan. Gayatri Devi’s political career was marked by a rivalry between herself and Indira Gandhi, India’s first and only female prime minister to date.

Provenance:
By repute formerly in the Collection of Maharani Gayatri Devi, Rajamata of Jaipur (1919-2009)

Formerly in the Al Thani Collection

Lot 68, Maharajas and Mughal Magnificence, New York 19 June 2019.