Large 19th C. Turkoman Gilt Silver & Carnelian Pendant

Central Asia, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, or Turkmenistan, Turkoman (Turkman), Karakalpaks, or Tekke peoples, ca. 19th to early 20th century CE. This is a massive and gorgeous gilt silver and carnelian pendant or pectoral with a braided cotton cord through the chain links. The pendant is comprised of thick panels that are decorated with curved flanges and integral loops for suspension. The triangle or tumar is worn on the chest and represents a mountain and the flanges represent curved horns from a ram. The surfaces are incised with geometric patterning and scrolling shapes. The center is bisected by a cylindrical tube or "bozben" that is also decorated with carnelians. Both ends of the tube have narrow openings, for slipping a rolled Muslim prayer scroll inside for protection. At the bottom are dangling silver bells on chains that jangle. Size: 10" L x 9.5" W (25.4 cm x 24.1 cm); silver quality: 93%; weight: 450 grams

From the Metropolitan Museum of Art's website "Turkmen Jewelry" August 2011: "Although nominally Sunni Muslim, the Turkmen kept many of their pre-Islamic customs and beliefs, which were often embodied in the jewelry they made and wore. Turkmen silver jewelry carried deep symbolic meanings and often marked an individual's passage from one stage of life to another. From a very early age, a woman started wearing jewelry whose shapes and materials were believed to ensure her ability to bear healthy children later in life. The amount of embellishments a girl wore increased as she approached marriageable age. Once she had had her first children, and her fertility had been established, the amount of jewelry she received and wore decreased. In addition, silver jewelry believed to ward off evil and illness was worn by men, women, and especially by children.

Jewelry was a significant financial investment, as it was handcrafted from precious materials. There were cases when, in times of dire need, a woman would part with her jewelry in order to help the survival of the tribe. Significant in size and weight, Turkmen jewelry objects were made of silver, decorated with semi-precious stones, and sometimes gilded for an added color effect and value."

For a similar example please see the Metropolitan Museum of Art website accession number: 2010.501.5.

This piece has been searched against the Art Loss Register database and has been cleared. The Art Loss Register maintains the world's largest database of stolen art, collectibles, and antiques.

Provenance: private Southern California, USA collection, in the USA since 1997

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#167298
Condition Report: Fine condition. Areas of patina and toning. Indentations and surface wear as expected with age and use. Remains of a velvet or cloth backing in recessed areas below tubular bozben. A modern cord and clasp have been added to the piece to make wearable, but please note the large size of this piece. The integral loops could make this suitable as a wall hanging or display piece.