MARINA B: A PAIR OF DIAMOND 'PARDY PAVÉ' EARCLIPS, CIRCA 198...
MARINA B: A PAIR OF DIAMOND 'PARDY PAVÉ' EARCLIPS, CIRCA 1980 Each designed as a stylised arrow decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 5.00cts total, signed Marina B, numbered, with maker's mark MB, Italian registry mark, length 3.5cm
For similar example, see:
Viviane Jutheau de Witt, 'Marine B: The Art of Jewellery Design', Skira editore, Milan, 2003-2011, page 123, entry no. 243-244
In the transformative landscape of the late 20th century, Marina B emerged as a visionary jewellery designer and pioneer, whose creations bridged the worlds of engineering precision and refined artistry.
Born into the illustrious Bulgari family, she was part of the third generation of this renowned jewellery house. Following the death of her father in 1973, Marina assumed a central role in the family business until 1976 and in 1978, she established Marina B, opening her first showroom on Geneva's Place du Molard and quickly expanding to the fashionable hubs of London, Milan, Monte Carlo, Paris, and New York.
Marina B's designs are characterised by splendid, heavy gold pieces set with intensely coloured gemstones. Instead of the conventional method of stringing pearls and beads, which she found mundane, she pioneered innovative assembly techniques that revealed the hidden beauty of each gemstone. By creating deliberate "belly buttons" in round, colourful stones and embracing interchangeable design elements, she crafted jewellery that was both dynamic and adaptable.
A defining chapter in her colourful career was her collaboration with the highly skilled Parisian workshop of JeanPierre Brun. Introduced to her by her trusted draughtsman, JeanPierre Varin, Brun's workshop became her principal partner. Brun's jewellery workshop was established in Paris in 1936, and quickly became a cornerstone of 'haute joaillerie', renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship and collaborations with prestigious design houses.
Initially led by Pierre G. Brun until his retirement in 1975. Under his sons Jean-Pierre and Etienne's stewardship, the workshop solidified its reputation, working with esteemed brands such as Asprey, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, and Van Cleef & Arpels.
JeanPierre Brun himself described Marina B's creations as highly structured, architectural, and meticulously constructed, comparing her uncompromising attention to detail to that of Suzanne Belperron. This collaboration not only underscored her commitment to precision but also played a crucial role in realising her inventive designs, including complex mechanisms for chokers and necklaces.
Perhaps one of her most celebrated masterpieces is the Najwa sautoir necklace, introduced in 1982. Designed originally for a princess. Comprising a seamless strand of 1,800 nearly invisible pearls interwoven with subtle yet striking motifs in gold and diamond pavé, this necklace defied conventional aesthetics. The Najwa sautoir quickly evolved into a symbol of Marina B's creative genius and remains an enduring icon of her prestige.
Marina B's work has always been more than mere ornamentation. It tells a story of a woman who dared to break with tradition, blending her heritage with her own inventive vision. Her jewellery, whether it be a transformative piece with reversible earrings, interchangeable gemstones, or a meticulously engineered choker, continues to capture the imagination of those who appreciate the fusion of technical mastery and artistic flair.
Marina B changed ownership multiple times after Marina Bulgari stepped away from the brand in 1996. Drawing inspiration from its remarkable archive of over 12,000 sketches, in 2017 the brand entered an exciting new chapter under the leadership of renowned jewellery designer Guy Bedarida. Known for his influential roles at Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, and John Hardy, took the helm at Marina B by acquiring a majority stake in the brand and becoming its creative director.
In February 2024, Marina Bulgari passed away in her Roman house on Valentine's Day, at the age of 93. Her lasting impact on the jewellery world is evident in every beautiful piece she created, reflecting her timeless style and spirit.
More Information
Each signed and numbered A1182
Diamonds: bright and lively
Clips for non pierced ears - normal tension
Normal signs of wear, overall in good condition
Total gross weight approx. 59.5g
MARINA B: A PAIR OF DIAMOND 'PARDY PAVÉ' EARCLIPS, CIRCA 1980 Each designed as a stylised arrow decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 5.00cts total, signed Marina B, numbered, with maker's mark MB, Italian registry mark, length 3.5cm
For similar example, see:
Viviane Jutheau de Witt, 'Marine B: The Art of Jewellery Design', Skira editore, Milan, 2003-2011, page 123, entry no. 243-244
In the transformative landscape of the late 20th century, Marina B emerged as a visionary jewellery designer and pioneer, whose creations bridged the worlds of engineering precision and refined artistry.
Born into the illustrious Bulgari family, she was part of the third generation of this renowned jewellery house. Following the death of her father in 1973, Marina assumed a central role in the family business until 1976 and in 1978, she established Marina B, opening her first showroom on Geneva's Place du Molard and quickly expanding to the fashionable hubs of London, Milan, Monte Carlo, Paris, and New York.
Marina B's designs are characterised by splendid, heavy gold pieces set with intensely coloured gemstones. Instead of the conventional method of stringing pearls and beads, which she found mundane, she pioneered innovative assembly techniques that revealed the hidden beauty of each gemstone. By creating deliberate "belly buttons" in round, colourful stones and embracing interchangeable design elements, she crafted jewellery that was both dynamic and adaptable.
A defining chapter in her colourful career was her collaboration with the highly skilled Parisian workshop of JeanPierre Brun. Introduced to her by her trusted draughtsman, JeanPierre Varin, Brun's workshop became her principal partner. Brun's jewellery workshop was established in Paris in 1936, and quickly became a cornerstone of 'haute joaillerie', renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship and collaborations with prestigious design houses.
Initially led by Pierre G. Brun until his retirement in 1975. Under his sons Jean-Pierre and Etienne's stewardship, the workshop solidified its reputation, working with esteemed brands such as Asprey, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, and Van Cleef & Arpels.
JeanPierre Brun himself described Marina B's creations as highly structured, architectural, and meticulously constructed, comparing her uncompromising attention to detail to that of Suzanne Belperron. This collaboration not only underscored her commitment to precision but also played a crucial role in realising her inventive designs, including complex mechanisms for chokers and necklaces.
Perhaps one of her most celebrated masterpieces is the Najwa sautoir necklace, introduced in 1982. Designed originally for a princess. Comprising a seamless strand of 1,800 nearly invisible pearls interwoven with subtle yet striking motifs in gold and diamond pavé, this necklace defied conventional aesthetics. The Najwa sautoir quickly evolved into a symbol of Marina B's creative genius and remains an enduring icon of her prestige.
Marina B's work has always been more than mere ornamentation. It tells a story of a woman who dared to break with tradition, blending her heritage with her own inventive vision. Her jewellery, whether it be a transformative piece with reversible earrings, interchangeable gemstones, or a meticulously engineered choker, continues to capture the imagination of those who appreciate the fusion of technical mastery and artistic flair.
Marina B changed ownership multiple times after Marina Bulgari stepped away from the brand in 1996. Drawing inspiration from its remarkable archive of over 12,000 sketches, in 2017 the brand entered an exciting new chapter under the leadership of renowned jewellery designer Guy Bedarida. Known for his influential roles at Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, and John Hardy, took the helm at Marina B by acquiring a majority stake in the brand and becoming its creative director.
In February 2024, Marina Bulgari passed away in her Roman house on Valentine's Day, at the age of 93. Her lasting impact on the jewellery world is evident in every beautiful piece she created, reflecting her timeless style and spirit.
More Information
Each signed and numbered A1182
Diamonds: bright and lively
Clips for non pierced ears - normal tension
Normal signs of wear, overall in good condition
Total gross weight approx. 59.5g
