Paul Robin Gold and Diamond Wristwatch

The case cover designed as an owl's head set with old European-cut and old mine-cut diamonds, opening to reveal a round white dial, on a brick-link bracelet.Diamonds weighing a total of approximately 3.20 caratsInternal circumference 6½ inchesSigned Dumoret 5 Rue de la PaixFrench assay mark and workshop mark for Paul RobinManual movementCirca 1880-1914

Condition Report:
In very good condition, with minor abrasions to the mounting that are remarkably minimal given the age of the piece. French assay mark for 18 karat gold. Workshop mark for Paul Robin located on the clasp tongue. Diamond weight stated in the catalogue description approximated using measurements. The diamonds are approximately F-J color, VVS-SI clarity. Closes securely with a box clasp. Fitted with a safety chain. Gross weight approximately 46 dwts. Watch in running condition at time of cataloguing but has not been tested for accuracy of time-keeping. Please view the 'Conditions of Sale' link for the 'Important Notice Regarding Condition of Watches.'

Catalogue Note:
The owl has a long history of representation in many cultures and in many art forms. To the ancient Egyptians, the owl was thought to be the guardian of the soul on its journey into the afterlife and was also considered to be the protector of sacred knowledge. To the ancient Greeks, the owl was the symbol of wisdom associated with the goddess Athena, and in the case of the city of Athens the owl became the adopted symbol of the virgin goddess on their coinage. During the 19th century Age of Spiritualism, the owl was generally regarded not only as a symbol of wisdom and intelligence, but was also tied to change, transformation and intuitive development. It is no wonder that the Bohemian Club of San Francisco, an elite invitation-only social club founded in 1872, adopted the owl as their emblematic totem. The Bohemian Club's all-male membership, still active today, includes artists and musicians, as well as many prominent business leaders, government officials, former U.S. presidents, senior media executives, and people of power. Today for some, the owl is often a preferred tattoo, to show one is a wise soul of independent thought.

The watch offered here is an extremely rare example of bracelet-watch circa 1880, made by one of the acclaimed French jewelers Paul Robin. He apprenticed under his father Jean-Paul Robin and learned the art of drawing from the master Eugene Julienne. Since the 1830’s Maison Robin had achieved a reputation for tasteful design and excellent craftsmanship. Paul Robin senior devoted years to researching a formula for matte gold finish which was used to great effect on the jewels produced by Maison Robin. After the death of this father, Paul Robin joined his brother Edouard in Robin Frères from 1869 to 1880. He then registered his own maker’s mark with the Paris assay office in 1880. Paul Robin is widely recognized for his owl, serpent and horseshoe themed jewels in a myriad of forms from brooches to buttons and cufflinks. This bracelet-watch stands out as a rare exception, while still being immediately identifiable as the work of Paul Robin. Although he repeated the owl design using various gemstone accents for the eyes such as ruby, moonstones, catseye chrysoberyls and diamonds, this jewel in particular features an unusual proliferation of diamonds. It is also an extraordinary, unique example of an early form of the wristwatch.

For a similar owl's head brooch by Paul Robin see French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century by Henri Vever, pages 813 and 1014.