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Rolex Reference 6205 ‘Small Crown’ Submariner | A stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 1954 | 勞力士 型號 6205 ‘Small Crown’ Submariner 精鋼鍊帶腕錶,製作年份約 1954

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Rolex

Reference 6205 ‘Small Crown’ Submariner
A stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 1954

勞力士 型號 6205 ‘Small Crown’ Submariner
精鋼鍊帶腕錶,製作年份約 1954

Dial: black gilt dial, chapter ring
Caliber: automatic, 2 jewels
Movement number: 44'682
Case: stainless steel, screw down case back
Case number: 85'916
Closure: stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted expandable bracelet with folding clasp
Size: 38 mm diameter, bracelet circumference is approximately 185 mm
Signed: case, dial and movement
Box: yes
Papers: no
Accessories: Rolex presentation case

Condition Report:
Case: The case is in overall very good condition with light signs of use. The bezel has some chips at 5, 8-12 o'clock. The bracelet with visible surface scratches from normal wear.

Dial: The dial is in overall very good original condition. Some light spotting throughout. The luminous plots and hands have aged evenly throughout and is very attractive. The 6 o'clock lume is lighter than the rest which is normal.

Movement: The movement is running at time of cataloguing, however it was not tested for the accuracy of time or duration of the power reserve and may need service at the buyer's discretion. Please note that Sotheby's does not guarantee the future working of the movement.

Catalogue Note:
Often considered to be one of the rarest and most sought-after Submariner models ever produced, reference 6205 was exclusively available in 1954 and 1955 and made in an exceedingly small series, with only some models featuring the designation “Submariner” on the dial.

Preceded by the other so-called “small crown” Submariner, reference 6204 which was released the year before, reference 6205 introduced a number of new improvements including the increased depth resistance of 100 meters and a larger 6mm crown for increased usability. The dial had luminous dot hour markers, a Mercedes style hand and a large seconds hand. What makes it special is that it was the first Submariner model to feature the famous Mercedes style hand and the first reference to feature a dial that read ‘Submariner’ on it.

The present watch is fresh to market and has remained in the possession of the family of the original owner since it was purchased in 1954. The original owner, who prior to his death in 1956, had been Chief Medical Officer of BAPCO and was the head of worldwide medical operations for the Caltex Oil Company. While working and living on the island of Bahrain, he was further able to pursue his hobby of scuba diving, which is what led him to buy a diver’s watch. While diving he was able to grow his knowledge of under-water life around Bahrain, which established him as an authority of the ichthyology of the Persian Gulf. He was writing a book on Gulf Marine life and, at the time of his passing, had completed work on about half of the scientific data which was later passed on to The New York Museum of Natural History.

This watch has been unworn since 1956 and is in very well conserved condition. The black lacquered dial with gilt printing is highly attractive and the luminous hour markers have aged evenly and beautifully throughout to a warmer tone. The case retains strong proportions and the bevels are visible. The early bezel which lacks any minute sub-divisions from the 0 to the 15-minute marker as would be found on future Submariner references, has some chips to it but is otherwise is very good condition. The reference 6205 is a historically relevant watch and this example presents a rare opportunity for the discerning collector of exceptional sports watches.

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[ translate ]

Rolex

Reference 6205 ‘Small Crown’ Submariner
A stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 1954

勞力士 型號 6205 ‘Small Crown’ Submariner
精鋼鍊帶腕錶,製作年份約 1954

Dial: black gilt dial, chapter ring
Caliber: automatic, 2 jewels
Movement number: 44'682
Case: stainless steel, screw down case back
Case number: 85'916
Closure: stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted expandable bracelet with folding clasp
Size: 38 mm diameter, bracelet circumference is approximately 185 mm
Signed: case, dial and movement
Box: yes
Papers: no
Accessories: Rolex presentation case

Condition Report:
Case: The case is in overall very good condition with light signs of use. The bezel has some chips at 5, 8-12 o'clock. The bracelet with visible surface scratches from normal wear.

Dial: The dial is in overall very good original condition. Some light spotting throughout. The luminous plots and hands have aged evenly throughout and is very attractive. The 6 o'clock lume is lighter than the rest which is normal.

Movement: The movement is running at time of cataloguing, however it was not tested for the accuracy of time or duration of the power reserve and may need service at the buyer's discretion. Please note that Sotheby's does not guarantee the future working of the movement.

Catalogue Note:
Often considered to be one of the rarest and most sought-after Submariner models ever produced, reference 6205 was exclusively available in 1954 and 1955 and made in an exceedingly small series, with only some models featuring the designation “Submariner” on the dial.

Preceded by the other so-called “small crown” Submariner, reference 6204 which was released the year before, reference 6205 introduced a number of new improvements including the increased depth resistance of 100 meters and a larger 6mm crown for increased usability. The dial had luminous dot hour markers, a Mercedes style hand and a large seconds hand. What makes it special is that it was the first Submariner model to feature the famous Mercedes style hand and the first reference to feature a dial that read ‘Submariner’ on it.

The present watch is fresh to market and has remained in the possession of the family of the original owner since it was purchased in 1954. The original owner, who prior to his death in 1956, had been Chief Medical Officer of BAPCO and was the head of worldwide medical operations for the Caltex Oil Company. While working and living on the island of Bahrain, he was further able to pursue his hobby of scuba diving, which is what led him to buy a diver’s watch. While diving he was able to grow his knowledge of under-water life around Bahrain, which established him as an authority of the ichthyology of the Persian Gulf. He was writing a book on Gulf Marine life and, at the time of his passing, had completed work on about half of the scientific data which was later passed on to The New York Museum of Natural History.

This watch has been unworn since 1956 and is in very well conserved condition. The black lacquered dial with gilt printing is highly attractive and the luminous hour markers have aged evenly and beautifully throughout to a warmer tone. The case retains strong proportions and the bevels are visible. The early bezel which lacks any minute sub-divisions from the 0 to the 15-minute marker as would be found on future Submariner references, has some chips to it but is otherwise is very good condition. The reference 6205 is a historically relevant watch and this example presents a rare opportunity for the discerning collector of exceptional sports watches.

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Sale price
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Estimate
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Time, Location
09 Dec 2022
USA, New York, NY
Auction House
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